skirting the issue

The finial fitting of the bodiced foundation and the sleeve layer went well. The foundation has a few wrinkles that are annoying me but once I use a sturdier fabric than muslin and add the boning I think it will be fine.

The sleeve layer was good, I just need to lower the center back bottom edge another 5/8" to match the markings on the foundation. Yesterday I found a c1910 gown that I love the sleeve detailing on - I might try reworking my sleeves to something like this. I'm still pondering that though...

So I next turned my attention to the skirt. I'm going more 1911 with my gown so I wanted something a little fuller than a hobble skirt. What I really want is Wearing History's Cordelia skirt but the pattern isn't quite ready and I can't wait for it. Oh well - I'll have fun with it when it is ready! :>

In the meantime I analyzed the Cordelia to figure out what it is that I liked so much about it. For me it's really a great transition/compromise between the elegant sweeping Edwardian skirt and the slim more modern hobble. I love that it's slim at the top and flared at the bottom. I also love the pointed train since I was already thinking of going with that shape.

So I looked through my books, files and patterns and found a similar skirt in Period Costume for Stage & Screen by Jean Hunnisett. Hunnisett’s skirt is slim through the hips then has released pleats all the way around the skirt (not just the back like the Cordelia). So it seemed like a good starting point.

One of the things I love about Jean Hunnisett’s books are that the patterns are not only based on extant garments (don't let that book title fool you, these patterns are not just for theater) but they are sized for a modern body so adjustments are easy. Since this was a skirt I decided to draft it up rather than use the computer to blow up the image. So lots of math and measuring later I had a toile mocked up. It used a lot of fabric but I decided to do a full mock-up so I could play with the pleats, the flare of the hem and the ease on my body. The pics are of the skirt with the seams just sewn up, without the pleats being defined or sewed down. It’s a really pretty skirt as is but not quite right for my ETD.

So I started fitting the skirt to get that slim in front, full in the back look that I want. No pics of that step but I think I'm on the right track...